Thingiverse
Filament Sensor Mount for CR-10 by psdesign
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
This is an improved filament runout sensor mount for the CR-10.
Revision June 1, 2018: I have just modified and uploaded a new revision *- which has a thicker base plate for more resistance to long term strain from filament tension.
I have constrained the filament path to the minimal it needs right up to cutaway for the lever of the switch to move. I have created a path that should lead right into your extruder at the right height and position. I have specifically designed it to work with the EXR Struder by SeeMeCNC, but it seems to align well with stock and aluminum versions.
Be sure when screwing it to the 2 screws which mount your bearing on the Z rods, that you dont tighten the screws too much this may constrain the bearing from moving into the most comfortable position for it to allow for free movement.
Also look at my tape fix for the metal switch lever, this is probably the main reason every one has problems inserting filament.
I did make it to mount a PFTE tube at the entrance, I find this helps filament to bend and align with new path to extruder from the reel without allowing the filament to wear down the sensor mount.
print with no supports. both parts laying on their flat backs and open clam shell upward.
I print at 0.1 layer height and slow 35mm/s to get all of the detail sharp.
You will need 2 socket head or button head M3 x 10mm and 3 countersunk M3 x 10mm
I like to keep assortments such as:http://a.co/8sZ7tY4
or full assortment:http://a.co/1QCcfcb
and 3 countersunk M3 x 10:http://a.co/h1ciAqL
1 30mm length of PFTE tubing, cut with sharp razor (not scissors), flair exposed end a bit with a Phillips screw driver
If you make one please post your 'make' photos.
••••Update March 2 files filambox5 have been updated with a slightly adjusted height to better align path to extruder, have repaired some internal issues. Have opened the rear screw mount so you can leave the brass bearing connected with one screw, just raised, slip it on, then screw in second.
Updates on Base6 made opening at higher angle to ease mounting without removing rear screw, still to be tested.
*** Update March 4, following a few user tests and comments I have made version 7.
the screw holes have been made longer and countersinks wider to accommodate standard screws from stock filament holder. I have also made oval openings for screw mounts to allow more flexibility in mounting and less stress on bearing position. For this reason I was also forced to remove the open ended top screw.
thanks!
Revision June 1, 2018: I have just modified and uploaded a new revision *- which has a thicker base plate for more resistance to long term strain from filament tension.
I have constrained the filament path to the minimal it needs right up to cutaway for the lever of the switch to move. I have created a path that should lead right into your extruder at the right height and position. I have specifically designed it to work with the EXR Struder by SeeMeCNC, but it seems to align well with stock and aluminum versions.
Be sure when screwing it to the 2 screws which mount your bearing on the Z rods, that you dont tighten the screws too much this may constrain the bearing from moving into the most comfortable position for it to allow for free movement.
Also look at my tape fix for the metal switch lever, this is probably the main reason every one has problems inserting filament.
I did make it to mount a PFTE tube at the entrance, I find this helps filament to bend and align with new path to extruder from the reel without allowing the filament to wear down the sensor mount.
print with no supports. both parts laying on their flat backs and open clam shell upward.
I print at 0.1 layer height and slow 35mm/s to get all of the detail sharp.
You will need 2 socket head or button head M3 x 10mm and 3 countersunk M3 x 10mm
I like to keep assortments such as:http://a.co/8sZ7tY4
or full assortment:http://a.co/1QCcfcb
and 3 countersunk M3 x 10:http://a.co/h1ciAqL
1 30mm length of PFTE tubing, cut with sharp razor (not scissors), flair exposed end a bit with a Phillips screw driver
If you make one please post your 'make' photos.
••••Update March 2 files filambox5 have been updated with a slightly adjusted height to better align path to extruder, have repaired some internal issues. Have opened the rear screw mount so you can leave the brass bearing connected with one screw, just raised, slip it on, then screw in second.
Updates on Base6 made opening at higher angle to ease mounting without removing rear screw, still to be tested.
*** Update March 4, following a few user tests and comments I have made version 7.
the screw holes have been made longer and countersinks wider to accommodate standard screws from stock filament holder. I have also made oval openings for screw mounts to allow more flexibility in mounting and less stress on bearing position. For this reason I was also forced to remove the open ended top screw.
thanks!
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