ESP12 Pogo Breadboard by bobtidey

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

This is an adapter to allow ESP-12 modules to be programmed or developed on a breadboard. It is an alternative version of the one I described at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2147460
The previous one fits standard solderless breadboards which have a central gap between the rows of 7.6mm. The width was kept to a minimum and meant that 2 spare holes were still available for connection to each esp-12 pin. This is OK for most applications.
This version uses a solderless breadboard divided into two pieces to allow a bigger gap. The adapter is changed to accommodate this by moving the headers outside the ESP pogo pins. This then allows up to 4 connection points per ESP pin which can be convenient for some uses.
The 3d prints allow spring pins to be used to match the 2mm spacing used on these modules. The pins mate through the holes on the module and allow the module to be just pushed in place. A retaining bar may be used to provide a more secure fit, although for quick programming this may not be needed.
A joiner piece is also included which allows the two parts of the solderless breadboard to be remounted into one piece. The breadboards normally have an adhesive pad at the bottom to make this easy to do.
Parts required are 3d printed parts, 400 point solderless breadboard, 16 spring pogo pins (1mm diameter 16mm long, eBay packets of 100), 2 8way single in line jumper posts (cut off longer strips), 2 M3 30mm countersunk screws and nuts, optional 220uF smd decoupling capacitor.
1) Print off 3d-pieces. Check pogo pins fit into base holes and will go through top plate holes. If necessary clean holes with a 1mm drill.
2) Prepare 14 of the pogo pin by soldering a fine wire about 3.5mm up from base. I used 0.2mm wire got from a multistrand cable. It is important that minimal solder is used to keep the final diameter small to avoid shorts when the pins are assembled.
3) Use slightly thicker wire for the 2 remaining pins which will be the power pins. If using the decoupling capacitor then leave a tail either side.
4) Insert the 8 way headers into the base slot with short side up into the pin cavity side. Do not force as the side wall is deliberately kept thin. Clean up with needle file if needed.
5) Insert pins one at a time into the blind holes in the base and solder the tail onto the header pin. Solder in decoupling capacitor if used.
6) Double check continuity then carefully add epoxy resin around header plugs to secure in place and solidify with narrow sidewall. It is a good idea to tape over the legs underneath to prevent any resin getting onto them.
7) Position pin alignment 3d part over the pins and push down, You can use tweezers to align each pin into the holes as required.
8) insert countersunk screws through both parts and secure with nuts.
9) Saw breadboard in half down the middle plastic. THis does not expose any connections. Use a reasonably fine saw like a junior hacksaw. It is a good idea to tape over the holes first. Clean up centre with a file.
10) Insert made up pogo module between the two halves to get spacing right. Peel off adhesive layers and stick to joiner.