Da Vinci Duo 2.0 Chimera Edition with 200x200 printbed upgrade by NAK3DDesigns

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

Updated 09/29/2018
Added file for new corner cover with integrated chain mount for relocating the x-axis wiring in cable chain.
Updated 09/02/2018
Posted a revised version of the 20mm carriage(Chimera_Carriage_20mm_Rev_2_with_removable_cap.stl) after discovering a few minor problems. Created more room for heatblocks, widened opening for wire feed thru, and cleaned up plug area for better fitment.
Updated 07/25/2018
I've uploaded my latest version of my carriage for the new E3D 20mm Chimera design. The file is named "Chimera_Carriage_v6_20mm_with_removable_cap". It uses a new single bolt design to hold the belt using a heat set to prevent the screw from working loose(an issue with earlier designs when printing ABS and higher temp filaments). You will also need an Aluminium 2GT timing belt clamp like the on in this link https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-x-Pcs-2GT-Timing-Belt-Aluminum-Gear-Durable-Sturdy-Clamp-Mount-Block-Pack/222530321403?hash=item33cfd73bfb%3Ag%3AVlcAAOSwcgNZLuIo&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sacat=0&_nkw=2GT+Timing+Belt+clamp&_from=R40&rt=nc
I hope to have a series of video's filmed in the very near future with step by step instructions for this entire MOD. I'll post the link once I start posting them.
Warning The carriage is designed to work with the old Chimera that is 18mm between the nozzles. I will be releasing an updated version for the new 20mm spaced Chimera as soon as I get a chance to print and test the updated version.
Updated 12/07/2017
Re-loaded the V4 version of the Chassis that I originally posted back on 08/20/2017. Not sure what happened that the old version ended up back on the posting.
UPDATED 09/10/2017
As promised I have added an PDF document with full step by step instructions with pictures. I have also added a basic chain mount if you wish to eliminate the Extruder Circuit board as I have. Good Luck!!!
UPDATED 08/27/2017
Added new pics of the latest design assembled with all wires fed into the molex connector.
UPDATED 08/22/2017
Added a few pics of the assembled printbed support. You'll need to install the front three screws and then use the holes at the back of the two side brackets as a guide to drill out your Z-axis chassis for the remaining two screws.
UPDATED 08/20/2017
Replaced the Version 3 carriage with an updated Version 4. Realized you couldn't get the Molex pluged in for the cable chain mount. Moved it out and up for clearance.
UPDATED 07/23/2017
I've added a revised version of the carriage with the rear oiling points located in an easier to access location. I've also revised the cable holder to allow for a snap in female Molex connector (part #WM2483-ND) and used with matching male connector (part #WM2489-ND) for easier connecting and disconnecting of the print carriage.
I've also added the files for the front support brackets, support brace, and new thermistor bracket for the 200 x 200 print bed kit. The support brace is to help reduce twisting of the z carriage.. I recommend printing these in ABS with 25% infill as there is some heat transfer to the y carriage plate that has softened PLA when printing with the Bed at Higher temps(found out the hard way during prototyping).
I used a RepRap heated print bed.http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-Heated-Hot-Bed-MK2B-for-RepRap-3D-Printer-pre-wired-for-12V-SMT-LED-soldered/122063000091?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
A Prusa I3 universal Y-carriage.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prusa-i3-Universal-Y-Carriage-Plate-Upgrade-Aluminum-Anodized-for-3D-Printer/121561406955?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I did have to modify the carriage by drilling out the 4 corner holes with a 5mm drill bit and taped them to a M6x1 for installing m3 x.5 EZ loks McMaster Carr part # 97120A190.
On the new thermistor bracket there is a breakaway portion. once bolted to the y carriage plate use the hole in the break-away portion as a guide for drilling a 2.5mm hole and tap to M3 x .5 for installation of your rear bed adjustment screw.
All drill bits and taps are also available on McMaster Carr.
Some adhesive backed 3mm think silicone mat.http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-X12-Black-White-Silicone-Rubber-Sheet-Self-Adhesive-High-Temp-Plate-Mat/122242663272?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
And an E3D Borosilicate 4mm think 214mm x 214mm glass platehttp://e3d-online.com/Mechanical/Print-Surfaces/Borosilicate-Bed-200x200
held down with some 1/8 mirror clips.http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRL-Zinc-Plated-Offset-Mirror-Clip-for-1-8-Glass-Pack-of-100-by-CR-Laurence/191936825710?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649.
I've also uploaded a new Repetier file (Repetier_chimera_200.zip) with the proper settings for the 200 x 200 print bed and smaller drip trays. Just unzip this folder to the same location as your current Repetier folder in ArduinoDUE and then open the Repetier_chimera_200.ino file and re-flash your printer.
I will take more assembly pics and provide more instruction as I install this on my next printer. As this is getting long I may create a step by step instructions document and upload that to make things easier.
Should anyone get to this point before I complete the instruction feel free to message me and I will do my best to help you finish the upgrade.
Update 06/12/2017
I've added the files for revised(narrower) left and right drip trays. After trying for several months to make the 200x200mm print bed work with only one original drip tray I have come to the conclusion that it just won't work nor will it fit between the originals. If you want to stick with your 150-200mm print bed then no need to print these. For the 200x200 upgrade you'll need to print both the left and right drip tray and two of the drip boxes.
There are two versions of the drip trays I had little luck with conventional supports for the hanging tabs so I made a version with a more robust support.
More files and a new firmware update will be loaded shortly as well as a parts list for the upgrade, I'm just making a few final tweaks to the mounting brackets and doing some final testing.
Update 03/28/2017
I've added a bracket for relocating the cleaning tab to allow its use with the new print head.. Admittedly I have made so many changes to the firmware that I have uploaded a zip file of my entire Repetier folder. Changes now include Everything from the previous config file as well as removing all movement to the left drip tray and new "Clean" commands to use the newly located cleaning tab to clean both sides of the extruder. I've also turned off the filament sensors and top cover sensors by default. Thanks to Luc at Git-Hub for helping me remove the code for the left drip tray and in setting up the new "Clean" commands.
Update 03/26/2017
I've added a file Configuration.rtf. This is a copy of my Configuration.h file from my Repetier.ino flash. There are nine changes I made to align the print and they are all highlighted in yellow. You will need to open Arduino and load your Repetier.ino file and make these changes to the Configuration.h tab then re-flash your printer. I'm still working to eliminate the load/unload movement to the left drip tray and will post once I figure out how to default both the left and right to the right drip tray.
Warning this is not for the faint at heart... lol Several wires will need to be cut and soldered..
Thanks to Caj for creating a mock up of the Duo carriage(not much of hers left but it gave a good starting point). I posted two versions of the new carriage one has a Chimera logo I found embossed on the side one does not.. This is the only difference in the two files.
You will also notice there are holes directly over the bearings. If you look closely in my pics I have drilled holes in my bearings and ground small journals with spherical diamond dremel bits to allow for easy oiling. I've been using this on my 1.0 for the last 3 months and it seems to work great.
Also there are two small holes on each side of the carriage. These are for easy access to the print head adjustment screws for head leveling.
To save space and make the carriage as small as possible (stage two will hopefully upgrade to a 200x200 print bed) I have relocated the circuit board back on the chassis by adding a mount for the board to the cable chain mount.
The layer cooling fan is designed to have two heat sets installed allowing for thumbscrews to hold it in place for easy removal..
Included are also two versions of fan covers one E3D themed and one with the Chimera Logo.
Parts List:
E3D Chimera Kit
3 - M3x8mm Screws McMaster-Carr #92095A181(used for top three mounting holes in Chimera)
2 - Heat sets M3x.5 McMaster-Carr #94180A331 (mount in layer cooling fan)
2 - M3 Thumb screws McMaster-Carr #92545A111 (for attaching layer cooling fan)
4 - #4 x 1/4 Thread Cutting Screws McMaster-Carr #98273A110 (for mounting circuit board to mount)
2 - #4 x 3/8 Thread cutting screws McMaster-Carr #94629A550 (for belt lock)
2 - M3 x10mm Screws McMaster-Carr # 92125A130 (for cable chain end to mount)
2 - #2 x 3/8 thread cutting screws McMaster-Carr #99461A725 (for carriage cap)
4 - Brass bearings from your original carriage
Installation:
When installing the bearings in the new carriage I recommend test fitting them on the carriage and installing on the rails to make sure the carriage slides smoothly. If they are misaligned the carriage will bind(happened on my first attempt) I made sure the bearings fit loosely and then used JB weld to secure them in place while the carriage was on the rails this way they were set to the riding position. I carefully slid the carriage back and forth to seat the bearings then let it set overnite for the JB weld to set. Once the JB weld has set if you want to do my oil journal mod I would do it now.
*****Make sure to read all Chimera assembly instructions before proceeding****https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Cyclops_%26_Chimera_Assembly
Next install the heat sink to the chassis (making sure to install the 4 grub screws for the print head adjustments)with the Three M3 screws and washers provided with the Chimera Kit using the three holes in the back of the carriage. I also used three additional M3x8mm screws to attach the heat sink at the top as well.
Assemble your two print heads as per E3D V6 instructions. Coat the slides with heat gel and insert into the heat sink as pictured. The Chassis is designed to allow for the heater and thermistor cables to feed thru on each side. At this point I installed the original heater connectors on my new Chimera print head heaters and extended the connections on the Thermistors as they were too close to my layer cooling fan and wanted them to move freely for head height adjustment. I had a few JST SM connectors that I installed on the thermistors. All connectors and wire will slide threw the two openings(tightly) in the bottom of the chassis as pictured and the print heads will set nicely facing in opposite directions with the wires feeding up neatly threw the carriage.
I switched to Bowden extruders and located them to the stock mounting holes made in the chassis for the pro models and used a left and right kit like these.http://www.ebay.com/itm/252333918249?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=551178733223&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Some cutting of the plastic case may be required if you want easy access.
Pull back all the wiring from the original carriage and leave only the power wires for the heating elements. Plug in the extruder steppers and the feed from the Main CPU to the old carriage circuit board. Now run the thermistor feeds from the carriage circuit board to the carriage, add the 12v run for the permanent power to the heat sink fan from the main CPU, and run a feed for the layer cooling fan from the circuit board to the carriage. Zip tie together the heater, thermistor, and cooling fan wires and feed them all threw your cable chain to the carriage. Now pull back all the excess wires that fed the extruder steppers and ran to the carriage circuit board for the thermistors and zip tie it neatly in the motherboard compartment.
this is as far as I have gotten... Stay tuned for extruder alignment and position settings.