BNC Dock for Retrotink 5X-Pro by TheJeffChen

Last crawled date: 2 years, 11 months ago

A dock for the Retrotink 5X-Pro that passively breaks out the SCART jack into individual BNC connectors for RGBs or composite video signals, besides stereo audio.
!!!!!WARNING FIRST!!!!!
Retrotink 5X-Pro DOES NOT support TTL-level sync signal.
You MUST put a 470 ohm inline attenuation resistor on the sync line if your source device is outputting TTL-level sync.
Not doing so will very likely damage your 5X in the long run, even if it appears to work initially.
Printing
Print is straight forward. Models are placed in their respective print orientation already. Print with support. Logo-less body is provided for you purists. Bottom piece has dimples if you wish to put in some rubber feet, but a completely flat dimpleless version is also provided.
I printed this at 0.48 line width and 0.44 wall line width at 0.2mm height, and it turned out ok. Going down to 0.16mm layer height and 0.4mm line width will give you much better results.
Note if you know how to, slow down top/bottom layers so the tip of the model isn't printed too fast and look droopy. Limiting the shortest layer time might also help.
Electronic parts list
75 ohm BNC (proper):
Digi-Key Part Number: ARF1664-ND
50ohm BNC (cheaper):
Digi-Key Part Number: A97548-ND
Stereo Jack:
Digi-Key Part Number: 839-1411-ND
SCART Plug:https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32985585670.html
Cheap Aliexpress 75 ohm BNC headers (not verified):https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001874117483.html
It is recommended to use 75 ohm BNC headers.
You do not have to buy from DigiKey, if you can find physically compatible parts in the same dimensions.
The SCART header comes from any cheap SCART cable you can buy. They all seem to come from the same design. Or simply buy a lot of 10 from Aliexpress. It's not expensive.
Assembly
Solder wires to the SCART header before you install it. Pinout is attached in the pictures. Remember to leave enough length for the BNC and stereo jacks.
Drop the SCART header into the slot and push it inwards, and then insert the stopper piece to hold it in place.
Pre-tin the solder cups and GND rings of the BNC jacks before screwing them to the shell. Install all the BNC jacks first, and then install the stereo jack. The space is tight but should be enough. IMO this makes it less likely to overtighten them.
The bottom piece is not required but I assume some of you might not appreciate a piece of hardware with exposed innards. You could attach some rubber feet to its bottom to stop the whole thing from potential sliding.