Black Hole case for Pi-hole by OutpostKodelia

Last crawled date: 4 years, 1 month ago

Overview
When we decided to set up or own Pi-hole ad blocker, we knew it needed to have a killer case. Inspired by the scientifically accurate depictions of a black hole, we got to work, and this case was born!
We're not going to address how to set up your Pi, install the software, or how to configure your network (though we have included a link to a great article that will). You're on your own for that.
For now, this is designed to be wall mounted. We may add an optional desk mount down the road, but this just works better as wall decor.
Skills required for a successful outcome:
Installing thermal set inserts. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR6OBlSzp7I)
Basic familiarity with Linux operating systems.
Intermediate home networking/router configuration skills.
(Optional) Printing and vapor polishing ABS filament.
Prior to assembly:
You should assemble the Pi and the TFT screen, install the applications, and get everything working. Then power it down and disassemble it (but leave the SD card inserted).
You will need a network cable where the plug is crimped to the wire without a boot on the plug. You don't want one where there's a big strain relief boot around the plug and first inch of the cable, otherwise it won't tuck neatly out of the way.
You will need 5x4mm thermal screw inserts.
You will need an M3 screw kit with various short (6-10mm) screws.
You will need four 6x3mm neodymium magnets.
If you need to use the optional wall standoff, you will need two #6 sheet metal or wood screws, anywhere from 1/2 to 1" long.
Pi-hole w/ PADD - Setup Info:
https://learn.adafruit.com/pi-hole-ad-pitft-tft-detection-display/overview
Note: As of this writing, recent versions of PADD have had some issues with the 3.5" TFT. If it doesn't render correctly for you, check out the PADD github repo for more info. (https://github.com/jpmck/PADD)
Part Links:
3.5" TFT Screen: https://www.amazon.com/PiTFT-Plus-480x320-Touchscreen-Raspberry/dp/B017PDWNKE
Network Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-ZerobootCat6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B00Y42DS1I
Thermal Inserts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBRHXKK
M3 Screws: https://www.amazon.com/270pcs-Machine-Assortment-Phillips-Tapping/dp/B083FNJWR2
Magnets: https://www.amazon.com/GBYMIUY-Refrigerator-Magnets-Cylinder-Whiteboard/dp/B07873ZCY4
Assembly:
Install the thermal inserts where shown in the image with the red arrows. They should sit flush to the surface and should be installed as straight as possible. If any plastic bubbles up in the process, carefully shave it off with a sharp blade. Test fit all screws into all screw holes to determine the best length (may vary based on your printer, insert mount depth, print warping, etc), and enlarge any holes with a drill bit, if needed, to allow the screws to pass easily.
Assemble the accretion disc by screwing the top and bottom arches together with the disc sandwiched in between them. You can optionally use superglue between the pieces and clamp them until it dries in order to minimize any gaps.
Install the bare Pi into the rectangular case. It should just snap into place over the screw post clips. Install the TFT screen onto the Pi.
Place the rectangular case into the angled parts of the wall plate and the lower surround, hold the three together (the pi case should be settled all the way into and retained between the wall plate and lower surround) and secure the lower surround to the wall plate with two screws.
Install the upper surround around the pi case and secure to the lower surround with two screws. Secure the upper surround to the wall plate with one screw.
Secure the assembled accretion disc to the wall plate with four screws through the two flanges on the wall plate.
Use superglue to fix the four magnets into place on the backside of the cover and the front side of the upper surround. IMPORTANT: ensure you are installing the magnets flipped correctly to ensure that they attract instead of repel. An easy trick here is to let each pair of magnets snap together on the table before gluing them in and mark a dot on the outer face of each magnet in the pairing. When gluing in the magnets, make sure to keep the pairs matched and the side with the dot is the side that gets the glue. Once the glue is dry, simply snap the cover into place.
Install the power cord and network cord and ensure everything still works. If so, then you're ready to mount it. Route the power and network cords into the grooves in the back of the wall plate. If you notice that your cords just aren't flexing enough to allow a flush wall mount, print the optional standoff and use it to mount the black hole with a gap from the wall to allow your cords to flex and run behind the Black Hole.
Wall mount it. You will need two screws 52mm apart for mounting. Install them (preferably with drywall anchors or into a stud... but, honestly, this thing is pretty light and you can probably get away without using them as long as no one will be banging into it).
Printing tips:
0.2mm layers work great for everything. No reason to mess with thinner layers.
Accretion disc parts: print flat, no supports.
Lower surround: print with the large face down, you might need supports for the angled indentation.
Upper surround: print magnet face down, no supports.
Pi case: print flat side down, no supports.
Wall plate: print wall side down, with supports.
Face plate: print face down, no supports.
Wall standoff: wall-side up, with supports (for the screw head catches).
Filament / Finishing tips:
Print the main body parts in black, PLA works great for the body..
If you want a smooth glossy accretion disc, as shown in our final result, print it with ABS filament, assemble it, then carefully vapor polish it with the wall side down. Go slow with the vapor polishing, maybe a 15-30m session, and let it rest for a day or so before doing another session. This should help to prevent it from warping in the process. Ours is slightly warped because we went too fast. Note that vapor polishing can alter the shape slightly, so the fit to the wall plate may be affected by polishing, as you can see the gap in the top in our pic... again polish it slowly to minimize this.
Consider using a UV reactive filament for the accretion disc if you want it to glow in a black light.
If you're artistic (we're not), consider hand painting some swirls onto the accretion disc!
Notes:
In our finished product, the Pi core temp seems to sit right around 62C in a 23C room. The Pi's tolerance is up to 80C, so this should be fine. It probably helps to order a Pi kit with the two little aluminum heat sinks, or to order a standalone heat sink set if you already have a Pi you plan to use and it didn't come with them.
I have only tried this with the Raspberry Pi 3B. Other variants (excluding the 4 and Zero) should fit too, but we don't have any to test the fit with.
Have fun and enjoy watching the black hole swallow up those ads!