Thingiverse
![Asymmetric (MFG style) cam centering by Tacticaltactics](/previews/9247912.jpg)
Asymmetric (MFG style) cam centering by Tacticaltactics
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years, 1 month ago
Designed in conjunction with JumpNshootman
The printed slider design on the original pedals is simple and works decently, but it leaves some play around the center, which worsens over time as more of it gets rubbed away on the extrusion. As such, we had an idea to use an asymmetrical cam with a roller on a lever, like on the MFG Crosswinds, but using a compression spring (RC Shock) and cam on the inside instead so that it would be easier to convert, and there would still be some damping.
Overall, the design has the desired effect. There is no more play in the center, and oscillations are cut down by a significant amount. But (at least for me, as I was using nyogel to lubricate the slider previously) there is less damping effect. There is also much less range of motion due to the range of the RC shocks (and the size of the cam itself).
STEP and F3D assembly files are included in case you want to modify, or just get a better idea of how to assemble.
I've included a file for a cam which is the CAM A profile but with the left side exaggerated to make the forces symmetrical. This ends up actually making it feel heavier than the original CAM A. I may add a CAM B version later on.
Requires:
1x M8x50mm + M8 nut screw to act as the axle for the lever
5x M8 washer to put between the bearings on the axle, as well as between the top bearing and the lever itself (similarly placed to the 2020 bearing holders)
2 more 608 bearings
1x M5x40mm screw to hold the rear part of the RC shocks (taps into the part)
2x M3x12mm screws to hold the front part of the RC shocks into the lever (taps into the part)
4x M4x10mm screws + M4 T nuts to screw the new parts into the aluminum profile
2x M5x25mm screws + M5 T nuts for additional support screwed into the alu profile on the lever axle part
The same RC shocks can be reused, as well as the same bearing from the slider piece.
The end stop part that was originally on the side of the 2040 profile needs to be moved to the top, and has to be used or else the roller will go beyond the limits of the cam.
The printed slider design on the original pedals is simple and works decently, but it leaves some play around the center, which worsens over time as more of it gets rubbed away on the extrusion. As such, we had an idea to use an asymmetrical cam with a roller on a lever, like on the MFG Crosswinds, but using a compression spring (RC Shock) and cam on the inside instead so that it would be easier to convert, and there would still be some damping.
Overall, the design has the desired effect. There is no more play in the center, and oscillations are cut down by a significant amount. But (at least for me, as I was using nyogel to lubricate the slider previously) there is less damping effect. There is also much less range of motion due to the range of the RC shocks (and the size of the cam itself).
STEP and F3D assembly files are included in case you want to modify, or just get a better idea of how to assemble.
I've included a file for a cam which is the CAM A profile but with the left side exaggerated to make the forces symmetrical. This ends up actually making it feel heavier than the original CAM A. I may add a CAM B version later on.
Requires:
1x M8x50mm + M8 nut screw to act as the axle for the lever
5x M8 washer to put between the bearings on the axle, as well as between the top bearing and the lever itself (similarly placed to the 2020 bearing holders)
2 more 608 bearings
1x M5x40mm screw to hold the rear part of the RC shocks (taps into the part)
2x M3x12mm screws to hold the front part of the RC shocks into the lever (taps into the part)
4x M4x10mm screws + M4 T nuts to screw the new parts into the aluminum profile
2x M5x25mm screws + M5 T nuts for additional support screwed into the alu profile on the lever axle part
The same RC shocks can be reused, as well as the same bearing from the slider piece.
The end stop part that was originally on the side of the 2040 profile needs to be moved to the top, and has to be used or else the roller will go beyond the limits of the cam.
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