Thingiverse
9004 Bulb Lock Ring for Ford Trucks (Prob other Makes/Models) by entityunknown
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
UPDATE!!! Just to give the user a choice, I added the V3 files. V3 has a shorter flex clip than V2. That is the only difference. V2 is damn near unbreakable, V3 can break but ABS/Acetone is the cure even after/while the bulb is installed.
SO you wanted to upgrade your old truck/car headlights because they're dim and even though you shined them up and got em mostly crystal clear... The light was just not up to par.
SO you decided you'd buy yourself some fancy LED lights cuz they're brighter and it can't be that hard to do this upgrade right?.....
Your first mistake was using the word upgrade and easy when talking about your older vehicle. Haven't you learned this by now?????
Well I'm here to help you with that upgrade! I have an 87 Ford Bronco with the classic 9004 headlight bulbs which are VERY common on older and still even some new vehicles. In many situations that lock ring is the same since the fit is universal and there wasn't any need to make it fancy. So while this is for my Bronco, it'll work on any F-X50 from 87 to 92, Econolines of the same year/engine series, and it looked like Dodge uses the same ring too. Probably plenty of other manufacturers/models that use this as well.
The existing lock rings do not work because they are so deep and it doesn't allow the wire to work in the space. You can modify it but I don't know how easy it is to replace one and older vehicles are becoming scarce in the junkyards. I can only find one F-150 in my year out of the whole series in any junkyard in the valley right now...
That's why I decided to design my own and try to address the issues I had with the "simple" install.
First is the locking nubs are fixed. I made them so they will have a bit of flex but should remain sturdy. If you snap one, then ABS/Acetone glue to the rescue! Honestly not a bad idea to just coat it anyways to ensure it's VERY solid but it already is VERY solid :) I also angled the nubs on the side that contact the bulb body first to give a bit easier slip fit on. With mine it is a bit rough but it's a really tight tolerance and if it's just a bit larger it will not lock the bulb in. So if you install these, you'll find out quick you're gonna still use a bit of force to get them in but holding the bulb body around the rubber gasket, NOT the bulb itself, lining the new lock ring up just right, and then you can pop it in. It won't be as bad as it sounds, but if the body is not perfectly aligned to the ring, it will be significantly more difficult if not impossible as the angle increases. Be patient, steady, and you'll get it in :D
The next issue and the biggest is the wire. These are Hikari but they all appear to have the same body/build and since they are a universal fit, you can be pretty sure it's consistent.
The body of the LED bulb is larger due to them adding in fans so it's impossible to get the bulb through the original lock ring because of the seating ring protrusion unless you sand this all down a lot.
So I made the seating ring stick out less but still provide a seat. I also included 3 spaces where it does not protrude at all giving a LIL extra clearance for that wire.
The last thing I addressed was when the wire is fully through, it will be pinched the rest of it's life if you kept the original full body and height of the lock ring. I kept the height but I cut out 3 large slots for the wire to hang with less stress.
I really hope this helps someone out giving someone the option to turn those old dangerous night driving headlights that you almost might as well just leave off since they don't do much anyways, into a classic look with modern/safe lighting!
I should also say because there is no such thing as up with this part i.e. it doesn't have just one way it goes on, you should have plenty of adjustability to get the LEDs aligned properly because YES, the 9004 and most LED lamps do require alignment. What does that mean? It means make sure the covered side of the LED is pointed to the sky unless you like blinding people because you're a jerk ;)
SO you wanted to upgrade your old truck/car headlights because they're dim and even though you shined them up and got em mostly crystal clear... The light was just not up to par.
SO you decided you'd buy yourself some fancy LED lights cuz they're brighter and it can't be that hard to do this upgrade right?.....
Your first mistake was using the word upgrade and easy when talking about your older vehicle. Haven't you learned this by now?????
Well I'm here to help you with that upgrade! I have an 87 Ford Bronco with the classic 9004 headlight bulbs which are VERY common on older and still even some new vehicles. In many situations that lock ring is the same since the fit is universal and there wasn't any need to make it fancy. So while this is for my Bronco, it'll work on any F-X50 from 87 to 92, Econolines of the same year/engine series, and it looked like Dodge uses the same ring too. Probably plenty of other manufacturers/models that use this as well.
The existing lock rings do not work because they are so deep and it doesn't allow the wire to work in the space. You can modify it but I don't know how easy it is to replace one and older vehicles are becoming scarce in the junkyards. I can only find one F-150 in my year out of the whole series in any junkyard in the valley right now...
That's why I decided to design my own and try to address the issues I had with the "simple" install.
First is the locking nubs are fixed. I made them so they will have a bit of flex but should remain sturdy. If you snap one, then ABS/Acetone glue to the rescue! Honestly not a bad idea to just coat it anyways to ensure it's VERY solid but it already is VERY solid :) I also angled the nubs on the side that contact the bulb body first to give a bit easier slip fit on. With mine it is a bit rough but it's a really tight tolerance and if it's just a bit larger it will not lock the bulb in. So if you install these, you'll find out quick you're gonna still use a bit of force to get them in but holding the bulb body around the rubber gasket, NOT the bulb itself, lining the new lock ring up just right, and then you can pop it in. It won't be as bad as it sounds, but if the body is not perfectly aligned to the ring, it will be significantly more difficult if not impossible as the angle increases. Be patient, steady, and you'll get it in :D
The next issue and the biggest is the wire. These are Hikari but they all appear to have the same body/build and since they are a universal fit, you can be pretty sure it's consistent.
The body of the LED bulb is larger due to them adding in fans so it's impossible to get the bulb through the original lock ring because of the seating ring protrusion unless you sand this all down a lot.
So I made the seating ring stick out less but still provide a seat. I also included 3 spaces where it does not protrude at all giving a LIL extra clearance for that wire.
The last thing I addressed was when the wire is fully through, it will be pinched the rest of it's life if you kept the original full body and height of the lock ring. I kept the height but I cut out 3 large slots for the wire to hang with less stress.
I really hope this helps someone out giving someone the option to turn those old dangerous night driving headlights that you almost might as well just leave off since they don't do much anyways, into a classic look with modern/safe lighting!
I should also say because there is no such thing as up with this part i.e. it doesn't have just one way it goes on, you should have plenty of adjustability to get the LEDs aligned properly because YES, the 9004 and most LED lamps do require alignment. What does that mean? It means make sure the covered side of the LED is pointed to the sky unless you like blinding people because you're a jerk ;)
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