80x20 aluminum exrtrusion Y-axis for Prusa type printers (Tronxy/Anet/Zonestar/Folgertech) by ArtemKuchin

Last crawled date: 3 years ago

I wanted to redo the y-axis on my Tronxy P802MA for lower noise and better overall quality. There are many way to go, but I chose wheel just to try. I already had a very good experience after converting X-axis to 20x20 extrusion with minigantry.
So, I found https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278055
But the problem with that design that I wanted to leave my 16 tooth pulley because table is heavy and 20 tooth pulley would reduce holding power by 25-30%. Not good. Resolution is also a little concern, but not the primary one.
So, I did my version where belt goes inside v groove and strictly parallel to the axis. The most difficult part was to design a good belt holder while keeping it inside v-groove and parallel at all points.
I have finished the convertion. Printed test 20x20 cube, the size on x and y match to 2/100th of a millimeter. The noise reduction is huge.
However, I noticed that the motor and the idler add considerable length to y-axis, while I want everything to be compact. Since I plan to fully rebuild printer to aluminum extrusion I consider this conversion a temporary step just to test wheel operation on vslot. For the next version I will plan to put motor and idler under the extrusion, so, they will not add any length to the axis.
Because it is a temporary solution I did not design a low profile mount to the base for the axis. I just did two clip-on mount for my tronxy p802 which clip onto the acrylic frame (front and back parts). For your printer you would need to find solution for yourself.
BOM:
16 5x10 screws
4 5x20 screws (for table mount)
Full gantry for 80x20 extrusion with wheel (see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278055)
10 t-nuts
5mm nuts
25mm 3mm screw, nuts (for tentioner, see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1285301)
Two small screws (2-3 mm, depends on end switch) for end switch mount.
Washers, etc.
PRINTED PARTS
See images on how to position then when printing.
Everything is printed with 0.25mm layer. I used 0.6mm nozzle to speed things up. 3 shells.
gantryhook-v3 - a belt hook, actually like crocodile jaw. Space is very limited, the jaw is too thin. After placing the belt between the teeth knot the jaw with some reliable material. I used thin fish line. Do it very tightly. Use someone’s help to hold the knot while you do the second knot. Print to the side so the teeth a very good quality, not supports. 100% infill. No support.
y-belt-tentioner – idler part. Supports are needed. 40% infill.
y-motor-holder – motor holder. Supports are needed. 40% infill.
y-mount – clip on for the axis to acrylic frame. Supports are needed. 40% infill. In shown orientation the top part (where extrusion is mounted) is flattest. When assembling the axis put this part with crews and t-nuts on the extrusion, clip the axis on the frame then remove the frame and tighten the screws. It is a mess, I know.
y-tablespacer – it is a spacer between gantry and table holder.
Notes on table
I use the original aluminum table from my tronxy as a table holder. And the table itself is fully glass now, I don’t use any aluminum under the glass. I have been using such setup since june 2017 and never had a problem. I will post this conversion later separately.
Models
All models are also provided in SolidWorks format. Feel free to play around, but add a remix to my thing if you post what you did.