Thingiverse
3D Printer Mendel Type Small (relatively) by TRENDi77
by Thingiverse
Last crawled date: 3 years ago
This is my next homemade project for 3D printer.
Single homemade hotend or E3D compatible - 0,4 mm nozzle, bowden type extruder.
400W PC ATX PSU.
Electronics - Mega2560 + RAMPs 1,4 + Full_Graphic_Smart_LCD_Controller + 5 NEMA 17 motors. Malrin Fimware.
Expecting very small or none backlash effect with 5 mm rods for Z axis.
Working area with 220x200x3mm glass- XYZ - 220/186/148 mm;
Manual control for 40 mm fan for hotend/always ON by default/ and manual control for 30 mm fan duct with 500 oM potentiometer.
Short video: https://youtu.be/aaMdQ0u-Osc
Source files added for laser cutting and references (AutoCad 2010 or above). Also if You want to change ot remake anything.
Clamp for E3D clone also is present in .stl files. Will do 30 mm fanduct for it soon.
I was close to start with leveling and calibration, but found some drama with the LCD. Probably, I have damaged it during the flash of the mainboard. So things won`t develope very fast, untill I replace it.
BOM ~270-275 €
20.09.2015
Uploaded 30 mm Fan Duct for E3D type hotend -> + 10 mm on Z print area.
Source files reuploaded + 2 pics with E3D type hotend look.
28.09.2015
Printer is leveled and calibrated. Waiting only for new LCD controler to complete it. Thing is final.
Will post video and pictures, when LCD is here (after ~2 weeks).
21.10.2015
New 2 pictures added with new lcd controller.
Link to video of secont test print - https://youtu.be/R7v5BBhPvtYTest is made with the worst 1.75 mm ABS filament I have ever used - it is badly calibrated and got a lot of air bubbles. 0.2 mm layer hight
I got some things to improve mostly on print setting + got a layer shift on Y axis on the 3rd print test (some bridge test cube).
As it can be seen on the video no such thing as "massive Z wobble" here, on the contraty - You have to use expensive optic tools to see it :)
23.10.2015
Added photos of the result of the 3rd and last printer test - herringbone gears - at the end of the gallery. 0.2 mm layer hight, and better fillament used. A little bit to close start to table but the result is OK.
It is ready and complete at 100%. There will not be any update anymore.
10.12.2015
Added patrs #32 and #33 on request.
Did upgrade of left and right X axis holders to fit for Tr8 leadscrew. It is for 4 hole nut (holes situated on 16.2 diameter of the nut - http://g04.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1hqsXKpXXXXb_XVXXq6xXFXXX2/3D-Printer-Part-THSL-300-8D-Lead-Screw-Rod-brass-nut-for-3D-Printer-.jpg). So, prepare additional 8 M3 nuts, 8 M3x12mm bolts and change the couplers to 5to8mm.
25.12.2016
Uploaded versions for Air2 3D printer for X axis. Distances between center of the nut and the vertical smooth rod for Z movement - 30.5 mm.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mx8ncfCHZms
Single homemade hotend or E3D compatible - 0,4 mm nozzle, bowden type extruder.
400W PC ATX PSU.
Electronics - Mega2560 + RAMPs 1,4 + Full_Graphic_Smart_LCD_Controller + 5 NEMA 17 motors. Malrin Fimware.
Expecting very small or none backlash effect with 5 mm rods for Z axis.
Working area with 220x200x3mm glass- XYZ - 220/186/148 mm;
Manual control for 40 mm fan for hotend/always ON by default/ and manual control for 30 mm fan duct with 500 oM potentiometer.
Short video: https://youtu.be/aaMdQ0u-Osc
Source files added for laser cutting and references (AutoCad 2010 or above). Also if You want to change ot remake anything.
Clamp for E3D clone also is present in .stl files. Will do 30 mm fanduct for it soon.
I was close to start with leveling and calibration, but found some drama with the LCD. Probably, I have damaged it during the flash of the mainboard. So things won`t develope very fast, untill I replace it.
BOM ~270-275 €
20.09.2015
Uploaded 30 mm Fan Duct for E3D type hotend -> + 10 mm on Z print area.
Source files reuploaded + 2 pics with E3D type hotend look.
28.09.2015
Printer is leveled and calibrated. Waiting only for new LCD controler to complete it. Thing is final.
Will post video and pictures, when LCD is here (after ~2 weeks).
21.10.2015
New 2 pictures added with new lcd controller.
Link to video of secont test print - https://youtu.be/R7v5BBhPvtYTest is made with the worst 1.75 mm ABS filament I have ever used - it is badly calibrated and got a lot of air bubbles. 0.2 mm layer hight
I got some things to improve mostly on print setting + got a layer shift on Y axis on the 3rd print test (some bridge test cube).
As it can be seen on the video no such thing as "massive Z wobble" here, on the contraty - You have to use expensive optic tools to see it :)
23.10.2015
Added photos of the result of the 3rd and last printer test - herringbone gears - at the end of the gallery. 0.2 mm layer hight, and better fillament used. A little bit to close start to table but the result is OK.
It is ready and complete at 100%. There will not be any update anymore.
10.12.2015
Added patrs #32 and #33 on request.
Did upgrade of left and right X axis holders to fit for Tr8 leadscrew. It is for 4 hole nut (holes situated on 16.2 diameter of the nut - http://g04.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1hqsXKpXXXXb_XVXXq6xXFXXX2/3D-Printer-Part-THSL-300-8D-Lead-Screw-Rod-brass-nut-for-3D-Printer-.jpg). So, prepare additional 8 M3 nuts, 8 M3x12mm bolts and change the couplers to 5to8mm.
25.12.2016
Uploaded versions for Air2 3D printer for X axis. Distances between center of the nut and the vertical smooth rod for Z movement - 30.5 mm.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mx8ncfCHZms
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